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A Wee History of
the Kilt |
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There is little doubt about the antiquity of the "garb
of old Gaul" although several writers have adopted the theory that the
kilt was introduced by an Englishman early in the 18th century.
The original dress of the Highlander was the Celtic Feile-breacan
(belted plaid). This was a piece of tartan cloth, two yards broad and
four long, which was drawn round the waist in nicely adjusted folds, and
tightly buckled with a belt.
The lower part came down to the knees in much the same manner as the
modern kilt, while the upper part was drawn up and adjusted to the left
shoulder so that the right arm might be perfectly free. This upper part
was the plaid, which was used as a covering for the shoulders and body
in wet weather; and when the use of both arms was required it was
fastened across the breast with a brooch, often curiously enriched.
A brooch was also used to fasten the plaid on the left shoulder. |
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To attire himself in the belted plaid required on the part of the
Highlander no small amount of dexterity. The usual way was to lay it on
the floor and, after carefully arranging the folds, to lie down upon it
and then buckle it on. The lower end was fastened at the right hip.
The utility of such a dress in the Highlands is obvious, for the plaid
rendered the man indifferent to storms, and prepared to pass a night in
the open air in the most inclement weather, while the loose undergarment
enabled him to wade rivers or ascend mountains with equal ease. It was
thus peculiarly adapted to the warrior, the hunter and the shepherd.
If benighted, the Highlander of old would dip his plaid in water and
then wrap it round him, the woollen cloth swollen with moisture being
supposed to resist the wind, while the exhalations from the body during
sleep surrounded him with a warm vapour.
Heron's History of Scotland says that "in Argyle and the Hebrides before
the middle of the 15th century tartan was manufactured of one or two
colours for the poor; more varied for the rich".
The author of Certayne Matters concerning Scotland, who wrote prior to
1597, said of the Highlanders that "they delight in marbled colours
especially that have long stripes of sundry colours; they love chiefly
purple and blue". |
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The particular setts, or patterns of tartans which distinguish each
clan, must have been fixed before 1645, probably before 1600. Martin
says that every tribe and every island differed from the rest in the
fancy of making plaids, as to the stripes in breadth and colours.
The word (tartan) is held to be derived from the French teretaine, a
kind of linsey-woolsey cloth. Lord Lorne in 1889 discovered at Inveraray
old records of the clan Campbell which make frequent mention of tartans;
and tartans worn at the battle of Kilsyth (1645) have been seen by
living witnesses.
The Feile-breacan is now abandoned for the Feile-beag (philabeg or
filabeg) as more convenient. The difference is simply this, that,
whereas formerly the lower and upper parts of the dress were attached,
they are now separated. The lower part has the folds fixed by sewing,
and is known as the kilt, which is probably akin to the Danish kilte "to
tuck up" though the Gaelic cealt means apparel in general.
The shoulder
plaid, however, is now worn more for ornament than use.
A large purse of goats or badgers skin was suspended from the belt and
answered the purpose of a pocket. This was the sporran.
Brogues and tartan stockings, fastened with broad garters in rich
colours; a dirk, with a knife and fork and sometimes a spoon, stuck in
the side of a sheath, and a pair of pistols completed the attire.
The Highland garb was proscribed in 1747 (following the Battle of
Culloden) when it was enacted that any person who should wear the plaid,
filibeg, trews, or shoulder-belts, tartans or parti-coloured stuffs,
should be imprisoned six months for the first offence, and on second
conviction be transported for seven years.
This harsh law was repealed
in 1782 at the instance of the Duke of Montrose.
In this act occurs the first formal record of the "kilt".
(Chambers Encyclopaedia)
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